Downregulation of MMP1 expression mediates the anti-aging activity of Citrus sinensis peel extract nanoformulation in UV induced photoaging in mice.

Aging of the skin is a complicated bioprocess that is affected by constant exposure to ultraviolet irradiation. The application of herbal-based anti-aging creams is still the best choice for treatment. In the present study, Citrus sinensis L. fruit peels ethanolic extract (CSPE) was formulated into lipid nanoparticles (LNPs) anti-aging cream. Eight different formulations of CSEP-LNPs were prepared and optimized using 23 full factorial designs. In vivo antiaging effect of the best formula was tested in Swiss albino mice where photo-aging was induced by exposure to UV radiation. HPLC-QToF-MS/MS metabolic profiling of CSPE led to the identification of twenty-nine metabolites. CSPE was standardized to a hesperidin content of 15.53 ± 0.152 mg% using RP-HPLC. It was suggested that the optimized formulation (F7) had (245 nm) particle size, (91.065%) EE, and (91.385%) occlusive effect with a spherical and smooth surface. The visible appearance of UV-induced photoaging in mice was significantly improved after topical application on CSPE-NLC cream for 5 weeks, levels of collagen and SOD were significantly increased in CSPE- NLC group, while levels of PGE2, COX2, JNK, MDA, and elastin was reduced. Finally, The prepared anti-aging CSPE-NLC cream represents a safe, convenient, and promising skincare cosmetic product.

The Role of a Natural Mollusk Egg-Derived Ingredient in Facial Appearance.

New cosmeceutical ingredients that improve skin appearance are of interest to the dermatologist. Cryptomphalus aspersa is a snail raised on farms in Spain for its mucinous secretions and eggs. These natural products have been demonstrated in vitro to trigger mesenchymal stem cell differentiation, promote dermal fibroblast and keratinocyte migration, prevent keratinocyte aging, prevent oxidative damage, stimulate the extracellular matrix, and regulate MMPs. This 12-week study enrolled 40 male and female subjects age 40-70 years of Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV with moderate to severe facial aging and Rao-Goldman scores of 4-5 who applied an eye and face anti-aging cream twice daily containing a mollusk egg extract. Dermatologist investigator, subject, and elasticity assessments were performed at baseline, week 8, and week 12. At week 12, the investigator rated a 53% reduction in skin roughness (P less than 0.001), 26% improvement in skin brightness (P less than 0.001), and 12% reduction in skin dyspigmentation (P=0.033). The noninvasive elastometer measurements demonstrated an increase in skin elasticity at week 8 of 11% with a continuing elasticity increase at week 12 of 39% (P less than 0.001). The formulation studied included moisturizing, emollient, film-forming, and retinoid ingredients in addition to the mollusk egg extract to produce the clinical improvement.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(7):678-681.

The Anti-Aging Effects of Low Oxygen Tension Generated Multipotent Growth Factor Containing Serum.

Growth factors are a new category of ingredient found in modern cosmeceutical formulations. One novel method of obtaining cosmeceutical growth factors is the use of a bioreactor to culture neonatal broblasts on dextran microcarrier beads for 8 weeks under low oxygen tension (1-5%) mimicking embryonic conditions and eliminating the need for fetal bovine serum constituents in the final cosmetic material. This research evaluated the ingredient in a moisturizing vehicle on 40 females to determine its efficacy in improving overall facial skin appearance, as well as skin brightness, evenness, firmness, pore size, radiance, fine lines, coarse wrinkles, and blotchiness/ dispigmentation. Statistically significant improvement was seen in 90 days in skin hydration through corneometry, as well in global investigator and subject assessments. J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(1):30-34..

Effect of Calendula officinalis cream on achilles tendon healing.

In recent years, the scientific community has undertaken research on plant extracts, searching for compounds with pharmacological activities that can be used in diverse fields of medicine. Calendula officinalis L. is known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and wound healing properties when used to treat skin burns. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to analyze the effects of C. officinalis on the initial phase of Achilles tendon healing. Wistar rats were separated in three groups: Calendula (Cal)-rats with a transected tendon were treated with topical applications of C. officinalis cream and then euthanized 7 days after injury; Control (C)-rats were treated with only vehicle after transection; and Normal (N)-rats without tenotomy. Higher concentrations of hydroxyproline (an indicator of total collagen) and non-collagenous proteins were observed in the Cal group in relation to the C group. Zymography showed no difference in the amount of the isoforms of metalloproteinase-2 and of metalloproteinase-9, between C and Cal groups. Polarization microscopy images analysis showed that the Cal group presented a slightly higher birefringence compared with the C group. In sections of tendons stained with toluidine blue, the transected groups presented higher metachromasy as compared with the N group. Immunocytochemistry analysis for chondroitin-6-sulfate showed no difference between the C and Cal groups. In conclusion, the topical application of C. officinalis after tendon transection increases the concentrations of collagen and non-collagenous proteins, as well as the collagen organization in the initial phase of healing.